Heading South

We left Bosa to continue our circumnavigation of Sardinia on Flora Day a beautiful day with a light wind in the right direction, saw tuna feeding and thousands of by the wind sailors (very pretty jelly fish like creatures) a short sail for our first day to Cappo Mannu.

Tried to pick up a mooring buoy which parted as soon as it took some strain so we anchored near the fishing boats which had all left when we awoke in the morning.  Next day lovely sail down the coast to Torre Grande to visit Oristiano for some retail therapy, marina was quite expensive we thought for May so we stayed at anchor for a couple of nights then back in for our wedding anniversary (37yrs) had a great meal and a glass or two of vino in the marina restaurant.

Sailed off across the bay and picked up a well serviced mooring which had been provided to discourage anchoring and damaging the underwater ruins of Tharros – all ready for an early start in the morning.

 

 

We left at 8:30 which is early for us (ha!) windless morning so we motored to Buggaru (correct spelling) which has a narrow and sometimes silted up entrance, there was quite a swell running so as we couldn’t contact the harbour master on VHF to confirm depth we abandoned the idea (shame because it looked very picturesque) carried on to Carloforte on Isla di San Pietro – lovely afternoon breeze picked up to 18knts.

Tied up to the town quay and spent a few nights there – weather wet, windy and quite cold so long afternoon in a coffee shop.  Wind set to go easterly and increase to gale force (town quay would not be the best place to be!) so off to Calasetta marina across the water very quiet and well sheltered,  this was the first marina we’ve encountered to charge extra for electricity and water – we tried to be careful but still used a lot.  Out with bikes for nice cycle ride around the coast (ha) 3 hours later we returned – forgot to take any water – no place open to buy anything, but very beautiful and very fragrant.

Sailed back to Carloforte after the Gale had passed, started with a good 13knts then the fan was turned off – nothing!  We had a gorgeous meal of deep fried Sea Anemone followed by Sea Urchin pasta – felt a little guilty eating beautiful Sea Anemones but they tasted so good the guilt  didn’t last long.

Carloforte was gearing up for its annual tuna festival we thought it wouldn’t be polite to leave now so we stayed.

We enjoyed the beaches and walks around the flamingo filled salt pans, Carloforte is a lovely old town.  The tuna festival was amazing in so much that thousands of people descended onto a small island town and it became energised – we shared a tuna platter which we both loved apart from one dish – the rest even the raw tuna were delicious.

Al bought tickets for 5 euro’s each for a tuna talk with tasters in front of the stage, although we couldn’t understand what the chefs were saying we certainly enjoyed what they had prepared we were given tastes of a (deliciously smooth) beer, 2 classy wines, 8 savouries and tuna dishes – a real delight!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Live music in the evening and on the final night a firework display and music till 1:30am!!  A lovely time and a free berth on the town quay.  A fantastic place.
We sailed off (13knts of wind) and towed a fishing line (inspired by the tuna festival and the price of fish) – chicken for tea!  –

Into porto Romano, another free berth against the quay.  A pleasant walk into town and a Lidl and Conad (Leclerc) supermarkets oh and Al used the laundrette (only time so far).

Al watched a load of army blokies driving tanks and loading them on to a ship next to us quite entertaining.  (can’t imagine that ship will be stopped by Somali pirates)

 

 

Left on a windless mirror like sea to Porto Teulada which would take us the farthest south for the year, stopping at Porto Pino for lunch, just as we were entering this lovely idyllic spot the loudest patrol boat you’ve ever heard approached and hailed us we couldn’t hear what he was saying his engines were so loud!  Apparently the firing range was in use today (a Wednesday war) so after lunch we would have to keep 5 miles off the range a further 5 miles south to avoid being shot!  (Pilot book says range is only used December and January) So a detour of about 15miles great sail though SW wind force 4/5.

Stayed at Porto Teulada 4 days (1 free) good beaches (with lots of army blokies having R&R), nothing else there though.  Wednesday war continued until Saturday afternoon, so as the war was not due to start again till Monday morning we were allowed to enter the zone to the most beautiful bay of Porto Zaffano crystal clear turquoise water, anchored for the night at the Budello anchorage then motored on to Porto Malfatano trailing a squid lure (still no luck).

Over the bay to east cove in the morning as
the wind had changed, next day sailed on to Chia for lunch and a swim then onward to the ruins of
Nora, snorkelled to see the underwater ruins but it was too shallow to get near them so anchored off the beach for the night.

Mirror flat sea totally windless as we motored towards Cagliari just as we berthed in the notorious Marina del Sole the wind came up quite strong, €15 a night cheaper than the adjoining marina a great book swop, so what if the planks were a bit wonky and raised but you could hire a car (a real Fiat Panda) for €7 an hour brill!  Supermarket dash 1 hour no problem.

 

Evening fly past

 

 

We left bustling Cagliari on a close reach to Villasmus, anchored outside the marina with a pretty holiday complex.

Motored a couple of miles around Capo Carbonara in crystal clear water (Al not too well for a few days) – Leighton had the best snorkel so far seeing large shoals of fish and a small stingray next to the anchor.  Throttle cable failed so a temporary fix rigged up (string through the cabin window) Leighton took a bike ashore and cycled back to the marina where they were able to weld a broken bracket, unable to buy a new cable so the shorter spare gearbox one was routed under our bed. (class 1 bodge).

Left the anchorage with a strong tail wind then fan off then hit by a 26knt gust in which we couldn’t sail in any direction think it was just going up and down the mast!  We arrived in Porto Corallo luckily just ahead of some thunder and lightning bringing even stronger gusts.  Spent 2 nights moored next to huge sugar daddy owned yacht!  Porto Corallo is a marina with nothing around it bar a camp site it’s just a convenient distance between ports, we did watch the England V Uruguay game in the camp site, wished we hadn’t.

Onward to Arbtax where we anchored just outside the harbour in beautiful clear water had a lovely breakfast swim in the morning, then into the marina to explore the town which we expected to be bigger.  Went to a little cove recommended in the pilot book, very difficult to access the water – stoney and slippery.  Al had her first Italian pizza, seafood with no cheese and delicious.
Wind increasing so sheltered behind Isola dell’Olgiastra for a snorkel and lunch then on to the marina in Santa Maria Narvarrese where we hired a car and explored the Gennargentu national park.

High in the mountains with amazing scenery we felt sure (well Leighton thought) there would be no cyclists here – of course there were – crazy.. some looked as though they were hardly breathing whilst others struggled but not one walked – Respect!

After a lovely lunch returned to the car (40° so aircon on)

 

Visited the Su Marmuri cave at Ulassai which was quite spectacular the guided tour for us and a Russian family lasted 1½ hours with 150 metres of rock over our heads.. 

 

 

When we surfaced we had a flat tyre to change, luckily this hire car carried a spare, loads of people offered to help – the Sardinians and the Italian people as a whole seem very friendly and helpful.

 

Eventually we found our way back to the boat at 11:30 (when the driver listened to the navigator) quick bite to eat then bed.

Good sail onto Caletta marina this has to be the most dramatic coast line ever 800 metres to sea level the pictures don’t really do it justice.  Just amazing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We berthed opposite the beautiful super yacht Bristolian, wish we could have charged 20cents a photo as we would have made a small fortune from the number of gawpers –  it was one of the crews home town.

 

 

 

Leighton said they were looking for volunteers to go up the mast to remove the pennant, Al refused..

We met up with Stella and Stu (& Mitzy) again and caught up with our respective travels and swapped some good cruising info, they treated us to a lovely trip to the mountains in their car which was great – good to catch up with them.

Next Mistral Again!