Heading North

We left Caletta with a good sail all the way to Capo Coda Cavallo, bypassing the tempting short cut between the small island (watched a yacht later go aground there) a lovely sheltered beach unfortunately the sea temperature was only 19 degrees, stayed a couple of nights until the quite fresh wind eased then explored around the corner and found a good anchorage off the beach at the eastern end of Porto Taverna with a great view of Tavolara sailed over to the western end and anchored off lovely hotel for a swim and snorkel, checked out the hotel menu but it was a 4 or 5 course which we didn’t fancy so sailed back to the restaurants on the beach accompanied by some dolphins. Enjoyed a lovely meal and met up with some Aussies again, we seem to be shadowing each other around the anchorages.

 

Next day we sailed to the island of Tavolara with the idea of going ashore for lunch but it was crazy with ferries tripper boats and general noisy mayhem so we decided to sail towards Olbia stopping for lunch and in a lovely cove, afternoon sail around the headland with a good breeze into La Saline where we anchored for the night and slipped into Olbia in the morning to await the imminent mistral. A French boat moved off the free town wall and explained that he had been told to move as a big boat was coming in, we thought we would stay there until told to move; other boaters said we would be ok.

 

Dave and Bev with their yacht Tumbalong also managed to find a space the next day, good to see them again (they kindly gave Sheryl a lift to the airport back in May). Enjoyed Olbia the bars, beaches and shops were lovely, A 1 euro bus ride to a lovely beach and a serious walk to find a replacement throttle cable – you forget how hot it is away from the sea.

Olbia also had a few days of amazing street markets and mussel promotion meals in the restaurants. We thought we were getting one choice but it turned out it included all the choices, absolutely delicious. Overall a fantastic free week against the town wall. Before leaving we paid 10 euros to top up the water tanks, a woman in her eighties wearing high heels dressed well OTT took our warps and tied the boat and operated the water pump……

Leaving Olbia, a lovely breeze until we reached the headland ( as mentioned in the pilot book ) where it died and picked up again once past…. A lovely sail to a small inlet near Monella, very pretty and sheltered anchorage. Followed the coast – lovely lunch and swim anchored off Poltisco; the Bristolian was looking very tiny alongside some humongous superyachts, through superyacht alley seeing Madame Gu , beautiful in daylight but at night lit up like a gaudy fairground ride. Anchored off Cala de la Veloupe – superyachts everywhere , most of their tenders were bigger than Zig.. The sea was a beautiful turquoise but only 19.3deg C.

Next day sailed to Porto Cervo (Agah Khan’s masterpiece ) where we anchored only to be told to move, friends stayed the night off season but obviously taboo in July..

Back to the beautiful La Maddalena’s , Isla Caprera and anchored at Cala Collicio on a mooring bouy. A beautiful morning and snorkel , very peaceful until the rest of Italy arrived along with the warden asking for money so we left and anchored in Cala Pitta which was embarrassing as our anchor wouldn’t set despite several attempts, not helped by locals just dropping theirs without checking….. We managed eventually to get a good hold and slept soundly.

Around the corner to a sheltered bay Golf Della Saline until the strong winds pass (Force 8)……back to the mainland for the night next to a chap who needed 80 metres of chain out !!! in 5 m water… crazy ( not the phrase that Leighton used ) next day into Maddelana to top up provisions and buy a pass to enable us to stay in the areas for a week. A much cheaper option than paying via the warden afloat. ( 25 euros for a night from the warden or 30 for a week from the office? )

Stayed in Dead man’s passage, a lovely snorkel until all the tripper boats arrived. A dinghy ride through a narrow channel to see the other side.

We love the Maddelenas.

A relaxing day spent snorkelling and chilling anchored off Isola Spargi then onto the other side of Dead man’s passage for the night… no free moorings so we anchored and picked a mooring next day.

Around the island stopping at Isola Budelli for the night , a lovely hot sail next day around Isola Razzoli and Santa Marina.

Very busy but managed to pick up a mooring in Spaggia DU Man , very strong winds forecast so staying put till they ease..

It was said “I don’t care how much it costs we are staying in Maddelena for the night” ( first time in a marina for a month ) a lovely looooooooooong shower , revictualling and a lovely meal out refreshed and ready to leave next day.

Motored to a sheltered bay Macchia Malla ( close to our mate Bristollian haha ) ready for the long trip through the Bonnifaccio straits….. A beautiful sunny day so motored most of the way until we reached The Fornelli Passage where a squall and bumpy sea greeted us.

Out of the passage next day carefully following the leading lines with surf either side.

Anchored in Porta Conte for a few nights near a hotel on the skyline completely derelict. A short snorkel off the beach with small jellyfish around.

We were having lunch when Leighton noticed a neighbouring yacht had dragged its anchor and was drifting off, he alerted the crew of a neighbouring yacht with dinghy and large outboard afloat and they saved her just metres before the rocks…..

Into Alghero …. Whoopee….. The family coming over for a week… very excited….. so loads of shopping and cleaning and meeting them at the airport.

A fantastic week with them all as I think the pics will show…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sad to see them go xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Just the two of us again xxxxxxx

Love Alghero and Bosa but time to leave back through Fornelli Passage … a song comes to mind ” I’ve passed this way before”…. Hehe. Stayed the night in horseshoe shaped cove, Leighton snorkelled to check the anchor was well dug in and was freaked out by a large underwater shadow with a big fin – turned out to be a dolphin swimming on its side. Next day to Isola Rosso – Very shallow but ok.

Onto Bonifaccio on Corsica, wind moderate so a good time to cross the straits and leave beautiful Sardinia behind.

Stayed a few days here at 50 euros a night, a beautiful citadel perched on a cliff I was even persuaded to have a coffee with a view!!!! Overhanging a cliff… I kept very still…

Wind eased for a while so popped to Anse de Fornello we hoped to see the Corsica classic’s race from here but the wind blew so hard they passed quite some way from land, on to Anse de Roccopinna where a rock resembles a lion, lovely clear water here.

We picked up a mooring in Porto Pollo right next to a lovely beach excellent for swimming and snorkelling – stayed several days.

Next on to a little cove opposite Ajjacio good snorkelling we saw an octopus each day, being the end of the season the moorings were being collected in – only 5^th September!

Across the water to Ajjaccio, lovely town – Al had her hair cut there (brave) luckily happy with the end result.

Anchored with bow and kedge as recommended in the pilot book at Sagon, when the swell built others put out a kedge as well, quite a comfortable night’s sleep.

Great sail to Girolata – meant to be a fantastic place but we weren’t impressed. The scenery was lovely but the beach (apart from the myriad of day trippers) was a grazing area for cows and depository for their poopies.

Next to Calvi – with its French Foreign Legion base all very active, scores of soldiers parachuting and others were going over a very demanding assault course in the sea. Oh and we didn’t find Nelson’s eye.

Next to Ile Rousse a very rolly night, we put out the sea anchor suspended from the boom and that helped quite a bit. In the morning we had a lovely display by the fire fighting seaplanes exercising scooping up water and then dumping it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onto St Florent with a big imposing cloud hugging the hills, strong breeze on the nose and rain on entering – good beach and a lovely pink boat on a shop forecourt emblazoned with a “Hello Kitty” toting a machine gun! There was a fire just inland over the hill we could see a lot smoke billowing then all the training of the seaplanes was put to use for real with some impressive flying between the hills.

Around Cape Corse to Maccinaggio which completes our circumnavigation of both islands.

Down the coast to Bastia, lovely old port where we enjoyed exploring the sights and a very good meal in one of the waterfront restaurants.

Into Port Toga Bastia for the winter, Zigzag will stay in the water this year.

On Al’s birthday we walked to Bastia old town to Al’s favourite restaurant but found it was now closed for the winter – neer mind and no stomping of feet either! Back to the marina and had a delicious meal in nearly the closest restaurant to the boat…

Lots of lay-up jobs and then home to dear old Cornwall and winter…